Tag Archives: curing time

The Time Factor: a Day versus Two Months

As we all are aware of the extreme importance of the Time in the dyeing process, an awfully generalized instruction ‘The longer the time, the better the results” is very often applied, especially by the newbies, to all stages of the process unquestioningly and with no doubts

Some novices are certain that the reason for not getting the right color and/or print is them having been impatient and not letting the roll of dyed fabric sit for too long…

Of course, Time and Temperature are the two key factors of the dyeing process!

But there are also such inputs, as fibers condition, plant material quality, mordants, length of bath after all… Though the last value is the least popular aspect I’d say… All these and quite a few other things may influence the outcome. 

Nevertheless, the question that I am asked more often is about Time! Specifically about that sort of the Time which, say, starts right after you take off your pot from the heat source and ends up when you open the dyed fabric.

To finally separate the wheat from the chaff and not to rely upon the random outcome, I decided to run a comparative test to see how the Curing Time affects the result of the dyeing process in terms of the color yield/intensity and the sharpness of the prints, if any. In this test I was going to estimate only the visible side of the deal, not dwelling upon the Colorfastness at this point.

Fabric: Two lengths of silk previously sandwiched in between rusty sheets of iron, sprinkled with vinegar and cured for up to one week.

Plant material:My local favs – Sumac, Cotinus, vine leaf, Prunus Padus, maple leaf.

Process: The fabric folded with plant material and steamed. One length was left overnight and opened the next day; the other was left for two months.

The Visual Part: the Fast and the Slow Piece

The Fast Piece

The Fast Piece

The Slow Piece

The Slow Piece

And here are some details of the Fast Piece:

Sumac Print in the Fast Piece

Sumac Print in the Fast Piece

Various Plant Material in the Fast Piece

Various Plant Material in the Fast Piece

An Outstanding Maple Leaf Print in the Fast Piece

An Outstanding Maple Leaf Print in the Fast Piece

The details of the Slow Piece:

Cotinus Print in the Slow Piece

Cotinus Print in the Slow Piece

Cotinus and Prunus Padus in the Slow Piece

Cotinus and Prunus Padus in the Slow Piece

Various Plant Material in the Slow Piece

Various Plant Material in the Slow Piece

Now as we see, there is a very distinct difference in these two pieces. Using my sight as the only measuring instrument assigned for this experiment, I can tell that

  • The background in the Fast Piece is whiter;
  • The background in the Slow Piece is more muted;
  • The multicolor palette achieved in the Fast Piece is bright and crisp;
  • The color combination in the Slow Piece is more of the earthy tones, yet clear and intense

Of course, I have just scratched the enormous area of the Time Factor in the Dyeing Practice, and to positively state any consistent pattern here one should have run numerous number of tests and experiments.

But at this point I come to conclusion that not only it is an illusion to believe that the longer curing time gives better results, there is NO universal recipe in terms of Time use;

Time is one of the variables of the dyeing process, altering which we can get varied results. 


More on Wash Fastness

As much as I enjoy obtaining refined and unique marks from the plant material on fabric I cannot but brood over the Wash Fastness aspect, especially when it comes to wearables.

The common advice that can be most often found regarding washing and caring for naturally dyed textiles, is to hand wash it in cold water, or use a gentle cycle in the washing machine.

In my practice with natural dyestuffs I tend to meticulously run my own experiments to see how the same recipe/regularity works for me. Well, the moment I got my very first satisfying dyed pattern on a wearable item I immediately put on considering cap:

How long a garment treated with the natural dyes will serve before the increasing color fading from the multiple washes finally gives it an unappealing look?

Provided, of course, that the garment has been properly treated with mordants, as well as that the dyeing process has been carried out aptly.

07 08 09

For the silk accessories and such, the washing matter does not look as much uncertain as for the sportswear for instance. 

I really would have doubts as for a jersey T-shirt and a gentle washing cycle… Well, maybe I am just too lazy to consider a hand-wash, or is it just that I know that you cannot give a quality wash to a jersey T-shirt without presoaking it, which will definitely affect the natural dyes. So, why not give a try to a conventional washing then?

Still wearing the same considering cap, I got a dyed jersey shirt:

Front

Front

Back

Back

I decided to wear it on a regular basis from the moment I finished working on it last September, and throw it into the washing machine with the rest of my light-colored laundry; I used my usual detergent, Persil most of the time, for cotton fabrics.

These are some close-ups of the shirt pattern right after dyeing:

12 13 15

And now after three months and 15 to 18 washes, this is what I end up with at this moment:

01 02 03 04 05 06

Not sure how much obvious it really is from the pics, but the background color retains its corn-colored hue; while the bluish marks from the tannins have shifted towards brown color, as the result of their exposure to the high Ph of the washing powder.

Well, at this point my shirt still works for me. Which is fine. I’ll keep my further records on the gradual color shift and/or loosing color of this item.

Determining the point when the T-shirt starts looking toneless will surely give the better idea about the general shelf-life of my naturally-dyed clothes, which is essential info to be labeled on my naturally dyed collection.

So, dear colleagues, and what advice do you label your naturally dyed wearables with?



Another Test. A Visual Review

Another piece tested for wash fastness. 

A silk top dyed in the same dye bath as the jersey top,

printed with same type dried euca leaves, tested in the washing machine with the mild detergent.

Approved!



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A Test for the Wash Fastness

As the Natural Dye Stuffs exploring process is so gripping it is so easy to get drifted away in search for the perfect print.

You set up test after the test, bundle after the bundle, and each time you really get more and more exciting results; sometimes yet faults occur but those serve only to urge forward the maker.

But on some point you wanna get an idea of how much you can actually rely upon your results. How long would last this color, or effect? If a color shift would happen within a time? If yes, what to expect then? 

Even if it is a framable art, or a wall piece, you would not appreciate the image varnishing in half a year, not to mention the surprise for the clientele…

Should I mention the wearables? Taking into consideration the amount of work it takes to create a decent piece, it’s kinda undesirable to get the colors bleeding after the wash, or any other discrepancies between your result and the quality standart.

 

So, no matter how much I enjoy getting a nice natural print, I have been spending quite some time on testing my dyed and printed results for all sorts of treatments. 

 

And one of the first tested objects proved to be worth the time and effort invested in it!

Not long ago I posted some close -up shots of it on my FB page

and quite a few people liked it, which I appreciate a lot!

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I did not mention in my post though, that it was a cotton jersey top, an item subject to wearing and washing, and exposing to the direct sunlight!

The prints themselves were awesome!

I was going to run the test first and then consider the results. And, as I’ve mentioned before the test object proved good, so I’ll add a few words to this story to summarize the dyeing process.

The black color resulted from this dyeing session was a sheer surprise that day, as I was chasing the reds from euca at that time, and this was one of my many trials when I was getting anything but no red!

All sorts of brown and yellow shades. But Black! Really, did not see that coming…

Well , as I learnt later on,  from all the world’s huge variety of the euca species

I was lucky enough to have “a non-red” type at my disposal.

So, for this dye bath I used crashed dried euca from the pharmacy. I did not pretreat the fabric with alum.

I added a mighty rusted pipe to the bath, as dear Irit recommended me on the FB group to add some iron.

I assume the rusty pipe affected the dye bath ratio in kinda weird way!

For the prints I rolled the presoaked in water dried euca leaves of some local Crimea euca type, the origin is unknown. The bundles from this session were curing for about a week up to 10 days maybe before opening. And it was over a month before I washed the cotton jersey top in the washing machine with a mild detergent. Not to forget that I ironed it a with steam iron prior to the treatment!

The ready to go item did not lose any color intensity, nor did any color shift occur!

 

This is all as for the report on testing color.

I believe at present I will  follow this way of estimation of my dyeing results,

presenting nice prints and colors, if any, along with the reporting on

their fastness to different sorts of treatments.

P.S. Thanks to you my friend Maggie Drake, now I know first hand that euca does yield different sorts of red and orange shades. It’s all about the euca type you’re dealing with! Thank you, my dear friend! I appreciate it very much!

xoxo


SecretsJealouslyGuarded, or the Jersey Dress Dyeing Session

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Hi, Guys!

Reading about the History of Textiles and learning about the role of professional Guilds in the Medeval society I came across with this notion:

jealously guarded dye recipes

and I just liked the words combination!

Anyway, I have given some thinking as to why I enjoy so much sharing my findings and results with like-minded persons? As to some reason for me it is the second amusement after the art making process itself. Why so?

Maybe, these findings and stuff coming free much like the Inspiration comes, and hence what is freely given should be shared the same way?

Have not yet come up with any firm idea as for that so far…

In the meanwhile I have some nice pics of the process and some determination to share my experience, if there is anybody wondering how I got that dress dyed!

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress

and the process it turned out the way it is

First of all, the plant material I used for this dyeing session

Dry Cotinus Leaves

Dry Cotinus Leaves
Catalpa Leaves

Catalpa Leaves

Strawberry Leaves

Strawberry Leaves

 

The dry Cotinus leaves I gathered in the past November and kept all this time in a plastic bag, in a few bags actually. They seem to be doing well in plastic, so no need to bother and press them within a book, time and space saving!

The Catalpa leaves I gathered close to my house and pressed them in the magazine for a week or so before using. These definitely should be pressed flat and dried a bit before utilizing, much better colour yielding that way!

My mom’s strawberry leaves taken fresh from the plants.

Here it should be noted that everything was soaked in water the night before the dyeing session.

Plant Material

Plant Material

Some other plants/flowers were added the same day.

There are some Fern leaves ans Walnut leaves in the bucket and some Flowers.

Would you, please, excuse the lack of the flowers’ definition! 

I am sure the flowers are recognizable;

I’d only note that the orange ones are not much of an effect in terms of color and printing.

The Oak Barrel

The Oak Barrel

This is my Tannins Source, the oak barrel where I keep the water for some of my projects.

I did not use the tannin water for this project though.

Just wanted to show off  my barrel!

The Start

The Start

READY, SET, GO!

The Start

The Start

Feeling as usually the Uncertainty of the Starting Point!

As our dear colleague Pat Vivod has recently noted at her FB page ,

I can stare at things a LONG time before I take the plunge.

Thanks, Pat, it’s good to know I am not an exception in this regard!

The Materials

The Materials

A Note on the Process:

The Jersey Dress is 100% cotton and it’s been pretreated with Soy flower mixed with water about a month before the dyeing session.

The soaked plant material I spread out over a cloth to get rid of the extra moisture before further utilization.

 

The Leaves Drying

The Leaves Drying

I spent about 10 eggs for this project!

Laying out the Leaves

Laying out the Leaves

The plant material was subsequently dipped into the egg yolk and placed on the fabric.

I have to admit that after first 5 eggs I quit separating yolks, and was utilizing the whole egg!

Laying out the Leaves

Laying out the Leaves

Laying out the Leaves

Laying out the Leaves

This was one time consuming process, I’m telling you!

Laying out the Leaves

Laying out the Leaves

Laying out the Leaves

Laying out the Leaves

After all it was rolled over a copper pipe, simmered in the buckwheat shells dye bath at the temp 80C for about 1,5 hours.

Please, don’t ask why the buckwheat shells! I just happened to have a bag full of those and decided to give it a try…

Left outdoors for another 10-12 days.

And this is the result you may see:

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress!

The Jersey Dress!

 

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Ревностно хранимые секреты красильщиков! – Или одно трикотажное платье в работе.

 

Всем доброго времени! Читая об истории Текстиля и роли профессиональных гильдий в средневековом обществе, я обнаружила следующее определение: «ревностно охраняемые рецепты крашения» – интересно.

Задумалась, отчего же мне так нравится делиться своими находками? Поняла,  со Средневековьем меня ничто не связывает.

 

Теперь о трикотажном платье.

 

На фото представлен весь процесс, в результате которого у меня получился такой дизайн поверхности.

 

Платье из х/б трикотажа;

Растительный материал: листья скумпии, катальпы, клубники;

 

Листья скумпии были засушены в прошлом ноябре, хранились в полиэтиленовом пакете; листья катальпы я собрала недалеко от дома за неделю до крашения и держала в книге; листья клубники – прямо с маминой грядки.

Весь растительный материал был замочен накануне вечером, кроме цветов. Отмечу, что от оранжевых цветов (текома) в результате толку было мало.

 

В ведре листья папоротника и грецкого ореха.

 

Надеюсь, все растения узнаваемы, и можно простить отсутствие лат. названий!

 

Дубовая бочка – мой источник насыщенной танинами воды!

 

Итак, все подготовлено, и можно начинать. Платье предварительно, за месяц, было обработано разведенной в воде соевой мукой. Замоченный растительный материал разложен на тряпке, чтобы удалить избыток воды, прежде чем окунать в яичный желток и раскладывать по поверхности платья. На все ушло 10 яиц, после первых 5-ти я отказалась отделять желтки и использовала все яйцо.

 

Весь процесс раскладывания листьев и складывания платья оказался очень длительным!

 

В конце концов, окончательная версия была накручена на упор в виде медной трубки и после этого тушилась в ванне из гречневой шелухи при t=80C около 1,5 ч. и в дальнейшем была выдержана 10-12 дней на воздухе.

 

Получившийся результат вы можете видеть!

 

 


The Silk Tree Dyeing Session

Persian Silk Tree

The Silk Tree fluffs

This is a Silk Tree  (Albizia julibrissinthat I planted about 7 years ago. In our area we have very hot and dry summers (it has got even hotter for a few last years). The winters  are known to be mild and snowless, though in February the temp often drops below -15C / 5F and easily can stay at -23C /below 0F for a couple of weeks. Just enough to freeze some certain types of vegetation to death! That was (and still is) my concern as for the garden. Until this year we used to cover this tree for the winter, whereas last Fall I decided to give it a try and leave it unprotected for the winter, especially when it was over 3 meters tall. It seemed to have lived through the winter alright but  this summer’s unbearable heat and drought have definitely depressed my Silk Tree… Nevertheless, my tree stands tall in my garden all covered with gentle pink fluffs giving of the delightful fragrance all over the area!

Of course I had to try the fluffs for dyeing properties!

The Silk Tree Fluffs Bundle

The Bundle

I rolled the bundle over a copper pipe, cotton fabric, silk tree fresh fluffs, and simmered in aluminium pot for about 2 hours, let it sit for about 10 days.

Sorry, you all patient people, who can afford 3 weeks and more for curing! I just wanna catch the most of the opportunities this season provides for My Raw List of the Local Dyeing Chances to further develop and elaborate it with the flow of  the time.

That’s when my Rolls will be left  for years unbundled!

The Silk Tree Fluffs in the Cotton Cloth

The Silk Tree Fluffs in the Cotton Cloth

The Silk Tree Fluffs in the Cotton Cloth

The Silk Tree Fluffs in the Cotton Cloth

I was really surprised to get such a bright color! Though these are the images of the just unrolled fabric which is still wet.

The Silk Tree Fluffs in the Cotton Cloth

The Silk Tree Fluffs in the Cotton Cloth

My poor Fluffs! Look what happened to you!! 

The Silk Tree Fluffs Dyed Cotton Cloth

The Silk Tree Fluffs Dyed Cotton Cloth. The Still Wet Version.

And now the Fabric, just unbundled and still wet,

The Silk Tree Fluffs Dyed Cotton Cloth

The Silk Tree Fluffs Dyed Cotton Cloth. The Dry Cloth Version.

and after a few days, heat pressed and dry.

Well, I have no idea if this is any valuable information for the Natural Dyers. And what is more important I do not intend to make any scientific discoveries here! And I don’t think there is any good chances for that, as the Natural Dyeing existed long before all of us. Hence, most of the innovations talking in this field may sound similar to

“I invented the Bicycle!” sort of things…

But in this  Fascinating Field of the Natural Resources for Dyeing there are so many rewarding opportunities for the artistic application, not to mention the joy of communicating with the Nature!

And These I am determined to explore and describe! 

Hope you all are enjoying the change of seasons! xoxo

 

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Мое шелковое дерево –

я посадила около 7 лет назад. Наш климат примечателен очень жаркими летними температурами, еще более жаркими  в последние годы, и относительно мягкими и бесснежными зимами. Однако, зачастую пару недель в феврале может держаться очень низкая, до -23С температура, чего достаточно, чтобы заморозить насмерть нестойкие виды растений.

До недавнего времени мы прикрывали наше дерево на зиму, покуда оно не разрослось до 3-х м ввысь! Стоит мое дерево, все в цвету, источая аромат, меня радует! А где-то ленкоранская акация считается инвазивным видом!

Безусловно, я не могу не испытать цвет моей акации в части натурального крашения.

Беру: медную трубку, хлопчатобумажную ткань, розовые пушки*;

Варю/ тушу в алюминиевой посуде около 2-х ч и оставляю на 10 дней не открывая. Известное дело, есть очень терпеливые экспериментаторы, могущие ожидать до 3-х и более недель!

Я же боюсь не успеть сделать все намеченное на сезон.

См. Выше фото с результатами.

Честно говоря, яркость окраски меня потрясла! При том, что это хлопок и протравы никакие я не применяла. На фото –только что открытая ткань, все еще влажная. На последнем фото – ткань через несколько дней, проглаженная и сухая.

Однако, что стало с пушками!

Я разумеется, сомневаюсь, насколько эта моя информация может представлять интерес для опытных в натуральном крашении красильщиков! И уж тем более, не тянет она и на научное открытие. Сомневаюсь вообще в возможности таковых в области древнего ремесла натурального крашения, где всякое новаторство сродни изобретению велосипеда…

В данном случае я не преследую иных целей, кроме как описательно-повествовательных о Cвоем, ошибочно-пробном, в Натуральном Крашении, которое предоставляет столько возможностей для художественного приложения!

Надеюсь, всем по душе смена сезонов!

Рада комментариям!


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