Category Archives: Textiles

Staining vs Dyeing? Крашение или пачкание?

11сдз

Browsing close up photos of the Contact extraction results which reveal the magic of color from plants, whatever your level of interest, appeals to all textile enthusiasts. Recently I have been working on sorting out my season results and putting those into a number of posts for this blog. So, meanwhile, I thought I’d post some nice details of plant prints, you know, something of which subtlety, refinement and beauty can be appreciated only if cut out of the whole thing and put under a magnifying glass with right light on a stand)) Here are some considerations which inevitably arise in my mind when it comes to nice pictures and which I’d like to share with you.

Фрагментарные фото наиболее удачных мест окрашенной поверхности с применением метода контакного крашения всегда пользуются особой популярностью как средство произвести впечатление на коллег и сочувствующих)) Покуда я готовлю к публикации собранную за сезон инфу по нюансам контактной экстракции и натурального крашения, я подумала также поделиться своими фото. Особенно, если учесть, что зачастую не представляется возможным обратить внимание на удачный фрагмент иначе, как вырезав его и поместив под увеличительное стекло с удачным освещением)) Здесь мне хотелось бы поделиться с вами соображениями, которые непременно возникают у меня, по поводу красивых картинок, когда я вижу нечто подобное.

05сдз

In reality when we see a garment or an accessory we perceive it as a whole, appreciating composition, color scheme, etc. in general. We can hardly pay attention to a small detail if it is not in the focal point. The Contact dyeing technique is tricky and sometimes places the best results in locations far from appropriate. Like, you’re getting the most exquisite prints somewhere under the armpit? Yep, been there. Or, say, there is a totally dirty colored background on the most of the surface and on a side there is it, suddenly beautiful leaf print, although almost irrelevant… I, for one, believe that a certain select print on a photo no matter how magical and enchanting does not by default stand for same accomplished entire piece.

В действительности же, когда перед нами целый элемент одежды  или некий аксессуар, мы воспринимаем картину вцелом,общую композицию, колорит… Едва ли мы заметим небольшую деталь, не занимающую центрального места в композиции. Контактное крашение имеет каверзный характер, и наиболее выдающиеся фрагменты могут прийтись на менее подходящее для этого место. Скажем, случалось вам получить замечательный фрагмент как раз под проймой рукава? Либо подавляющая площадь изделия представляет собой цвет грязи, а вот тут, с краюшку, случился прекрасный отпечаток безотносительно ко всему остальному… На мой взгляд, демонстрация отдельно взятого увеличенного (преувеличенного) красивого фрагмента совсем не гарантирует красоту и совершенство всего произведения вцелом.

09сдз 19сдз

Which brings us to the most important question for dyeing practitioners: Staining or Dyeing, friends? How wash and color fast are the results? How many washing cycles can the color stay?…

Таким образом, мы пришли к фундаментальному вопросу процесса: Крашение или пачкание, друзья? Насколько стойкие цвета к свету и мокрым обработкам? На сколько стирок рассчитан запас прочности окраски?…

02сдз 08сдз

For those seeking more complex cloth and polychrome effects, deep understanding of the chemistry of dyeing is required. The right direction to be taken when diving into a world of dyes is the direction of learning and knowing how the things work in the natural world, widening one’s scope of knowledge on the dyeing technologies, revising traditional methods into simpler, safer recipes that produce wash and color fast results…

Те, кто стремятся получить сложные окраски, полихроматические эффекты, не могут обойтись без твердого понимания химии крашения. Наиболее верный путь, который можно избрать, погрузившись в мир красителей, это направление расширения своих познаний в области естественных дисциплин, технологических основ крашения, осваивания и совершенствования навыков применения традиционных рецептов и их адаптация к своим условиям. Все с той же целью получения стойких результатов крашения.

07сдз 03сдз 04сдз

Without strong foundation of knowledge in chemistry and technology one cannot evaluate true and false hazards when dealing with dyes and mordants and carrying out extraction procedures.

Истинные и мнимые риски применения красителей и веществ, проведения экстракции, не могут быть адекватно оценены без понимания взаимосвязей химии и технологии.

08сдз 06сдз

Knowing something just by its name and not understanding the backbone of process leads astray.

Зная процесс только по названию, не проникнув в природу вещей и не уяснив его сути, легко оказаться в непролазных дебрях.


01сдз

Also, trusting to magic in dyeing process will not bring someone closer to mysteries revelation, neither will it help use natural raw materials sensibly and artistically.

Не стоит полагаться на магическую природу процесса, думая что это даст возможность правильнее и художественнее применять натуральное сырье, – тайное таковым и останется.

 


My Garden Colors and Prints. Retreat at the Seaside/ Ретрит на море-“Краски нашего сада”

Art Textile Retreat Natural Dyes and Prints “It’s my Garden” is being called! The beginning of coming September I will be sharing my natural dyeing and printing technique, new tricks and good old basics of getting bright and beautiful natural colors on textiles. It is a 7 days program starting September, 8th 2014.

This is the area where this week will be spent Discover Ukraine : Places : Southern : Kherson : The Black Sea biosphere reserve

The place is located in 15-20 min walk from the reserve territory and overviews the sea, here it is http://hotel-troyka.com

I cannot point out enough that we’ll be working very intensively, so will be enjoying the warm sea and friendly atmosphere. Every participant will be able to learn new information and polish his/her skills and craft. And to take something special that he/she will accomplish at the workshops.

I will be dwelling upon some most intriguing methods of contract extraction and dyeing and we will have a chance to put it to practice. For instance, “three in one” contact dyeing method that is when three length of fabric are contact dyed in one bundle and turn out three absolutely different color schemes having nothing in common, will be in the focus as well as pantyhose/leggings contact dyeing, water color paper and ways of control and manipulating the clothing items in order to improve the contact dyed surface design.

The basic notions of fiber types, mordants, tannins, etc. will make the ground for this program meaning that we’ll make sure we understand how and why things work in natural dyeing. Upon getting basics clear we’ll indulge ourselves to the practical part.

Everybody is welcome to bring some special things they’d like to contact dye; felters are encouraged to bring their creations, please, rinse them really well. This is an option and you decide what you will be experimenting with.

The list of materials to bring will be sent additionally. Please, e-mail for more information at ruchkindryg*@yahoo*.co*.uk* (first remove the**)

 

wsh15

 

 

Готовлю арт-текстильный ритрит/ретрит Натуральные Красители и Принты – Это Мой Сад! Буду делиться секретами мастерства и последними техническими находками.
Неделя на море с 8-го сентября на побережье у Северо-Черноморского Биосферного заповедника Discover Ukraine : Places : Southern : Kherson : The Black Sea biosphere reserve

Место проведения выходит на море и находится в 15-20 мин ходьбы от заповедника http://hotel-troyka.com
Программа насыщенная, будет много работы, равно как и дружеского общения на теплом море. Каждый получит возможность почерпнуть новое и усовершенствовать свои навыки. Вы сможете сделать что-то особенное, чтобы увезти с собой.

В фокусе нашего внимания будут самые любопытные методы контактной экстракции. В программе контактное крашение “три в одном” – метод, позволяющий при одновременной обработке получить три не похожие между собой по цвету и дизайну отреза ткани за одно крашение, контактное крашение колготок/леггинсов, акварельная бумага, а также методы организации поверхности готового изделия для контактного крашения, позволяющие получить более  интересный дизайн.

Основу программы составляют базовые понятия о типах волокна, протравах, таннинах, и т.п. – мы уточним, как и что происходит в процессе натурального крашения, на таком уровне, который позволит нам более уверенно заниматься практикой.

Каждый может привезти с собой что-то специальное, с чем бы он/она желал бы поэкспериментировать. Валяльщики могут привезти свои изделия для окрашивания, обязательно очень хорошо выполосканные. Это – по желанию.

Список необходимых материалов вы получите дополнительно. За дополнительной информацией обращайтесь ruchkindryg*@yahoo*.co*.uk* ( удалите ** в адресе)

 


Upgrading Store Clothes/ Апгрейд Готового Платья

Utilization of Dyeing with plants method is a known thrill when it comes to introducing personality to store clothes. It works perfectly considerably due to the fact, that you are getting resuls from the Work of Nature, which is unmistakable and flawless.

The dyer acts just as a medium here, getting a thrill of opening the fabtics to the resuts.

I wanted to catch this moment with my camera, taking slowly each step as the Nature reveals its work in between the layers of fabric and leaves.

And there is something about it, not just that it is an OOAK peice of clothing you own, but it feels like you have a significant proof of your bond with the Nature, a protective shield that you’re wearing.

thr01 thr02 thr03 thr04 thr05 thr06 thr07 thr08 thr09 thr10 thr11

Метод крашения листьями сложно переоценить, когда речь идет о превращении массового в индивидуальное. И тут дело не в том, что на готовый предмет наносится некий штучный дизайн. Дело в том, что наносит его Природа, как свойственно ей, безошибочно и точно. Красильщик – только передаточное звено в этом процесс; он получает свою порцию восторга, когда разворачивает ткани.

Я постаралась с помощью фото передать захватывающий момент, когда перед тобою неторопливо разворачивается и предстает нерукотворное творение.

Что-то однозначно в этом есть, и это не только и не столько факт появления неповторимого дизайна, это как-будто в руках у тебя оказывается непосредственное свидетельство связи с природой, некая незримая защита, если хотите, не просто элемент одежды.


The Time Factor: a Day versus Two Months

As we all are aware of the extreme importance of the Time in the dyeing process, an awfully generalized instruction ‘The longer the time, the better the results” is very often applied, especially by the newbies, to all stages of the process unquestioningly and with no doubts

Some novices are certain that the reason for not getting the right color and/or print is them having been impatient and not letting the roll of dyed fabric sit for too long…

Of course, Time and Temperature are the two key factors of the dyeing process!

But there are also such inputs, as fibers condition, plant material quality, mordants, length of bath after all… Though the last value is the least popular aspect I’d say… All these and quite a few other things may influence the outcome. 

Nevertheless, the question that I am asked more often is about Time! Specifically about that sort of the Time which, say, starts right after you take off your pot from the heat source and ends up when you open the dyed fabric.

To finally separate the wheat from the chaff and not to rely upon the random outcome, I decided to run a comparative test to see how the Curing Time affects the result of the dyeing process in terms of the color yield/intensity and the sharpness of the prints, if any. In this test I was going to estimate only the visible side of the deal, not dwelling upon the Colorfastness at this point.

Fabric: Two lengths of silk previously sandwiched in between rusty sheets of iron, sprinkled with vinegar and cured for up to one week.

Plant material:My local favs – Sumac, Cotinus, vine leaf, Prunus Padus, maple leaf.

Process: The fabric folded with plant material and steamed. One length was left overnight and opened the next day; the other was left for two months.

The Visual Part: the Fast and the Slow Piece

The Fast Piece

The Fast Piece

The Slow Piece

The Slow Piece

And here are some details of the Fast Piece:

Sumac Print in the Fast Piece

Sumac Print in the Fast Piece

Various Plant Material in the Fast Piece

Various Plant Material in the Fast Piece

An Outstanding Maple Leaf Print in the Fast Piece

An Outstanding Maple Leaf Print in the Fast Piece

The details of the Slow Piece:

Cotinus Print in the Slow Piece

Cotinus Print in the Slow Piece

Cotinus and Prunus Padus in the Slow Piece

Cotinus and Prunus Padus in the Slow Piece

Various Plant Material in the Slow Piece

Various Plant Material in the Slow Piece

Now as we see, there is a very distinct difference in these two pieces. Using my sight as the only measuring instrument assigned for this experiment, I can tell that

  • The background in the Fast Piece is whiter;
  • The background in the Slow Piece is more muted;
  • The multicolor palette achieved in the Fast Piece is bright and crisp;
  • The color combination in the Slow Piece is more of the earthy tones, yet clear and intense

Of course, I have just scratched the enormous area of the Time Factor in the Dyeing Practice, and to positively state any consistent pattern here one should have run numerous number of tests and experiments.

But at this point I come to conclusion that not only it is an illusion to believe that the longer curing time gives better results, there is NO universal recipe in terms of Time use;

Time is one of the variables of the dyeing process, altering which we can get varied results. 


My Day at Atelier Fiberfusing

Hello there,

It’s been a while and I am already missing you all! The temp outside is +15C and I am in the middle of reorganizing my studio getting it ready for the new project.

A perfect time for a new post!

Along with my reflections on the new project, it is an aftersound of my recent meetings that my mind is being occupied with these days. One of my unforgettable impressions is definitely from the day at Atelier Fiberfusing in Amstelveen with the best hostess Dorie van Dijk whose textile art work has been my constant inspiration for quite some time now.

The beautiful landscape of the Netherlanden made an outstanding background for the development of that day!

The Road in Amstelveen

The Road in Amstelveen

The next absorbing thing after reading juicy blog posts of my fellow-artists is for sure visiting the artists’ studios! 

The Working Process at the Fiberfusing

The Working Process at the Fiberfusing

Dorie is checking on her samples with the local growers:

Dorie at work

Dorie at work

The treasure revealed!

The Knot Unraveled

The Knot Unraveled

The result is just delicious to the general accomplishment:

The work of Dorie van Dijk

The work of Dorie van Dijk

Some felting of the black sheep wool in the afternoon:

Ready, set, go!

Ready, set, go!

And this is something I came up with after a while. I didn’t plan on anything particular, rather played by ear knowing that the future piece would be incorporated into a much larger piece dedicated to my long trip this past Fall.

My black sheep piece

My black sheep piece

The piece embodies scraps of silk dyed with plant dyes by Dorie van Dijk:

Dorie's dyed silk bits in my piece

Dorie’s dyed silk bits in my piece

In my felted piece there is a house-like image luckily occurred, actually Dorie suggested it looked like a house. Which is very symbolical, I’d say.

A Little House

A Little House

From this point I know that in my ultimate work dedicated to my Fall trip there will be some nice green part with the road going all the way through the pastures with white swans and black sheep straight to Dorie’s hospitable house!


SecretsJealouslyGuarded, or the Jersey Dress Dyeing Session

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Hi, Guys!

Reading about the History of Textiles and learning about the role of professional Guilds in the Medeval society I came across with this notion:

jealously guarded dye recipes

and I just liked the words combination!

Anyway, I have given some thinking as to why I enjoy so much sharing my findings and results with like-minded persons? As to some reason for me it is the second amusement after the art making process itself. Why so?

Maybe, these findings and stuff coming free much like the Inspiration comes, and hence what is freely given should be shared the same way?

Have not yet come up with any firm idea as for that so far…

In the meanwhile I have some nice pics of the process and some determination to share my experience, if there is anybody wondering how I got that dress dyed!

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress

and the process it turned out the way it is

First of all, the plant material I used for this dyeing session

Dry Cotinus Leaves

Dry Cotinus Leaves
Catalpa Leaves

Catalpa Leaves

Strawberry Leaves

Strawberry Leaves

 

The dry Cotinus leaves I gathered in the past November and kept all this time in a plastic bag, in a few bags actually. They seem to be doing well in plastic, so no need to bother and press them within a book, time and space saving!

The Catalpa leaves I gathered close to my house and pressed them in the magazine for a week or so before using. These definitely should be pressed flat and dried a bit before utilizing, much better colour yielding that way!

My mom’s strawberry leaves taken fresh from the plants.

Here it should be noted that everything was soaked in water the night before the dyeing session.

Plant Material

Plant Material

Some other plants/flowers were added the same day.

There are some Fern leaves ans Walnut leaves in the bucket and some Flowers.

Would you, please, excuse the lack of the flowers’ definition! 

I am sure the flowers are recognizable;

I’d only note that the orange ones are not much of an effect in terms of color and printing.

The Oak Barrel

The Oak Barrel

This is my Tannins Source, the oak barrel where I keep the water for some of my projects.

I did not use the tannin water for this project though.

Just wanted to show off  my barrel!

The Start

The Start

READY, SET, GO!

The Start

The Start

Feeling as usually the Uncertainty of the Starting Point!

As our dear colleague Pat Vivod has recently noted at her FB page ,

I can stare at things a LONG time before I take the plunge.

Thanks, Pat, it’s good to know I am not an exception in this regard!

The Materials

The Materials

A Note on the Process:

The Jersey Dress is 100% cotton and it’s been pretreated with Soy flower mixed with water about a month before the dyeing session.

The soaked plant material I spread out over a cloth to get rid of the extra moisture before further utilization.

 

The Leaves Drying

The Leaves Drying

I spent about 10 eggs for this project!

Laying out the Leaves

Laying out the Leaves

The plant material was subsequently dipped into the egg yolk and placed on the fabric.

I have to admit that after first 5 eggs I quit separating yolks, and was utilizing the whole egg!

Laying out the Leaves

Laying out the Leaves

Laying out the Leaves

Laying out the Leaves

This was one time consuming process, I’m telling you!

Laying out the Leaves

Laying out the Leaves

Laying out the Leaves

Laying out the Leaves

After all it was rolled over a copper pipe, simmered in the buckwheat shells dye bath at the temp 80C for about 1,5 hours.

Please, don’t ask why the buckwheat shells! I just happened to have a bag full of those and decided to give it a try…

Left outdoors for another 10-12 days.

And this is the result you may see:

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress

The Jersey Dress!

The Jersey Dress!

 

xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

 

Ревностно хранимые секреты красильщиков! – Или одно трикотажное платье в работе.

 

Всем доброго времени! Читая об истории Текстиля и роли профессиональных гильдий в средневековом обществе, я обнаружила следующее определение: «ревностно охраняемые рецепты крашения» – интересно.

Задумалась, отчего же мне так нравится делиться своими находками? Поняла,  со Средневековьем меня ничто не связывает.

 

Теперь о трикотажном платье.

 

На фото представлен весь процесс, в результате которого у меня получился такой дизайн поверхности.

 

Платье из х/б трикотажа;

Растительный материал: листья скумпии, катальпы, клубники;

 

Листья скумпии были засушены в прошлом ноябре, хранились в полиэтиленовом пакете; листья катальпы я собрала недалеко от дома за неделю до крашения и держала в книге; листья клубники – прямо с маминой грядки.

Весь растительный материал был замочен накануне вечером, кроме цветов. Отмечу, что от оранжевых цветов (текома) в результате толку было мало.

 

В ведре листья папоротника и грецкого ореха.

 

Надеюсь, все растения узнаваемы, и можно простить отсутствие лат. названий!

 

Дубовая бочка – мой источник насыщенной танинами воды!

 

Итак, все подготовлено, и можно начинать. Платье предварительно, за месяц, было обработано разведенной в воде соевой мукой. Замоченный растительный материал разложен на тряпке, чтобы удалить избыток воды, прежде чем окунать в яичный желток и раскладывать по поверхности платья. На все ушло 10 яиц, после первых 5-ти я отказалась отделять желтки и использовала все яйцо.

 

Весь процесс раскладывания листьев и складывания платья оказался очень длительным!

 

В конце концов, окончательная версия была накручена на упор в виде медной трубки и после этого тушилась в ванне из гречневой шелухи при t=80C около 1,5 ч. и в дальнейшем была выдержана 10-12 дней на воздухе.

 

Получившийся результат вы можете видеть!

 

 


tamsyng

A blog about Textile Artist Tamsyn Gregory, designwork, home and outings.

albedo too

more chronicles of concupiscientia oculorum

Rayela Art

Creative Entrepreneur, Rachel Biel

The Pale Rook

Textile Art by Johanna Flanagan

Janice Paine Dawes, Artist

Art, Antiques, Upcycling, Life

Obovate Designs™

My dabbling and exploration in contact printing, natural dyeing, and soap making

sharity4

This WordPress.com site is the bee's knees

Priscilla Edwards

priscilla@priscillaedwards.co.uk

Local & Bespoke

think globally, craft locally

Sea Green and Sapphire

A blog about textiles and colour

Friends... French... France...

A topnotch WordPress.com site

h..... the blog

a blog of art, photography and all the adventures inbetween

Down to Earth

bits and snippets on fiber, mud and life as I know it

Ecofren F & B Community

Blog is about yummy,delicious,tasty....it includes food reviews,food history, recipes, reports and food fun.

Danny Mansmith

picture diary

The Little Green Dress Projekt

Wear it and Compost it

Natural Dye Workshop with Michel Garcia and Sustainable Dye Practice

A film series and discussion forum dedicated to the science and practice of natural dyes and pigments using sustainable methods.

THREADBORNE

Fibre Art, Eco Printing, Natural Dyeing, Book Arts

Crazy Coats of Many Colors

Using Crazy Quilt Techniques

gracefully50

On your birthday: count your candles, count your years, count your blessings.

obBLOGato

a Photo Blog, from swerve of shore to bend of bay, brings us by a commodius vicus of recirculation back to dear dirty New York

%d bloggers like this: